For years my Jewish friends have been conditioned to drink the “foxy” concord grape wine pumped out by the Manischewitz company during the holidays. During a recent CBS12 WPEC TV segment, while bringing some well made wine for Passover Seder to your attention, anchor Ben Becker asks “Why no love for Manischewitz”? Drink it if you like, but I’m here to offer freedom from the slavery to  high octane grape juice with two more Kosher for Passover wine selections.

I recently received samples from Backsberg Estate Cellars , which was founded by  family of Jewish refugees from Lithuania in 1916. Backsberg is located in Paarl, a town in the Western Cape province of South Africa. Today, the Back family owns 110 hectares of vineyards located at the slopes of the Simsonsberg Mountains. These vineyards are dedicated to the production of their traditional line, as well as the kosher wine line. Both of the wines below are 100% Kosher Mevushal (pasteurized) and are made under the certifications of the Cape Town Beth Din and OU (Orthodox Union) of the United States.

Backsberg has become the first wine producer in South Africa and one of only three in the world to gain Carbon Neutral status using carbon sequestration. Carbon sequestration is a process of removing carbon from the atmosphere and depositing it in a reservoir. The Back family is committed to preserving the environment through tree planting, conversion to bio fuel, and other initiatives including lighter weight bottles. They are not only stewards of the land, doing their part to ensure the next generation can enjoy the land, they are also humanitarians. In the wake of recent natural disasters they are participating in a program called ShelterBox, which provides emergency supplies and tents to people in need. A good family making good wine.

Backsberg 2010 Chardonnay

The first selection is the Backsberg Kosher Chardonnay 2010. This wine definitely benefited from some aeration and time to open. As soon as it was uncorked, the nose was buttered popcorn. However, after just a few minutes of swirling and aerating, nice tropical notes developed on the nose. The palate was crisp, with great fruit. Pears on the attack, and a mid palate that was a little buttery and a finish that was a bit spicy and toasty.  It has a short finish, but some residual spice lingers. Interestingly, there is no oak on this wine, so the spice and toasty notes are a characteristic of the grape and where they were grown, rather than the barrel process.  Again, with time to open, more tropical notes came through on the palate, and for $14 I would recommend the Backsberg Kosher Chardonnay 2010 for any time, regardless of religious persuasion.

Backsberg 2008 Merlot

For a red wine option the Backsberg Kosher Merlot 2008 is right on the money. Again, for just $14, this wine is perfect for anyone, anytime, kosher or not. The bouquet was rather tight, showing a little dark fruit. The palate showed restrained black fruit up front, with a nice mid-palate transition to a finish of woody smoke and some pepper spice. The wine has nice integrated tannin, not overly dry, this will rock with your brisket, lamb shank, or any other roasted meat meal.

Backsberg has a large line of wines, and I’d love to hear if you’ve had any of them. Kosher or not, Backsberg should find it’s way into your glass.

Good:  I was given two bottles of kosher wine to taste, the South African Backsberg 2008 Merlot and 2010 Chardonnay.  I was predisposed to dislike the wines, mostly because of the varietals.  I find that Merlots and Chardonnays can be cloying, overly indulgent in their berry-pluminess or oakiness.  (Pardon the invented vocabulary.)  I have shied away from these wines over the past few years.  But as I said, the wine was given to me, so it was free a gift.  Both bottles deserved a chance.

Results:  both wines surprised, and anyone looking for kosher wines should steer towards the Backsberg label.  The Merlot and the Chardonnay could be characterized as having the best qualities of their grapes, with balance that did not overwhelm the palate.   Especially in the case of the Chardonnay, this is a wine I would purchase, when I would normally opt for a lighter grape.  If you like Sauvignon Blanc, this is a Chardonnay that will make you happy.

Fantastic Fall Wines

Submitted by admin on November 5, 2010 – 4:52 pmNo Comment

There’s a nip in the air, and that means it’s time to shift our focus toward the fall’s cooler days, cooler nights and red wine.

Those light and bright summer whites are making room for richer and more full-bodied wines — both white and red. It’s time to head down to the wine cellar (or over to the wine rack) to begin the transition to medium-bodied wines, ones that work well with autumn’s erratic temperatures and seasonal foods. This month we share ten easy drinking favorites that pair beautifully with fall menus. All were selected because we love them, not according to price, so you will find an organic Argentine Malbec that retails for $10 or less to a $50+ (gasp!) Chardonnay.

El Coto de Rioja Crianza, 2006 from Spain is a perfect addition to fall and makes for the classic Rioja marriage of wine and wood. Made from 100% Tempranillo from Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Baja, this sleek red is created in a modern-style, with intense red fruit that combines the fresh, crushed strawberry and red cherry flavors typical of Tempranillo with expressive hints of vanilla and oak. It’s spicy, with gentle tannins and bright acidity, offering a rich, ripe finish. This style of wine just calls out for hearty beef — covered with black pepper, grilled or braised. It’s spectacular paired with “game birds,” paella, Parmigiano Reggiano or Asiago cheese, but it’s also an easy drinking wine to pair with a “the works” pizza and football on the side. Around $12

Cuma Malbec, 2007, a certified organic wine produced by Michel Torino Estate in Cafayate Valley, Argentina, was hidden in the southern hemisphere section of my wine cellar. Cuma means “pure and clear” in Aymará, the language of a tribe who once inhabited the region. This lively red-violet wine exhibits opulent aromas of bright cherry and plum jam, with raisin, vanilla and rosemary notes. There is plenty of ripe fruit, date-raisin flavors, and soft, sweet tannins. There’s a trace of nuts and spice on the long finish. Red wine lover’s pair this with chicken — barbecued, baked, broiled, roasted, or sauced like Chicken Cacciatore. A perfect party or get-together red, it also pairs well with pork, sausages, hard and semi-hard cheeses, calzone, burgers, cheesesteaks, cold cuts, and lasagna. Pastas with meat, vegetable, tomato, pesto or marinara sauces love this wine. This should become a staple in your wine collection. Around $10

Pumphouse Shiraz, 2007 hails from Backsberg Estate in Paarl, South Africa. This Malbec (12%) and Shiraz (88%) blend is a bold, full-bodied Shiraz. It’s very distinctive with roasted mesquite flavorings, and lots of mouth-watering black cherry, raspberry, blackberry, and black currant fruit blending with anise, vanilla, and a graphite notes. The long, smoky finish lets an espresso hint linger, allowing the wine to pair very well with dark chocolate. For more substantial pairings, steak, lamb, venison, or chili make for a nice meal. For snacking, cheesy dishes, Parmesan, Asiago, Gorgonzola or bleu cheese with Prosciutto are magically delicious with this wine. Around $19

Hugel Pinot Gris, 2006 is a rich, yet bone-dry wine that is savory and creamy on the palate and has generous acidity to balance its fullness. The aromas are fresh floral and spice with a bit of earth. There are apple-pie and lemon curd notes, sidling up to aromas of pear, jasmine, lime blossoms and smoky hints of moss, fern, and mushrooms. Full-bodied, balanced, and nicely structured, it’s a fruit-driven wine with delicious acidity. The lively, juicy fruit flavors offer a hint of sweetness. Ripe pears orbit around citrus and peach notes that make for solid pairing potential with seafood, poultry, veal, or mushroom risotto. The wine’s cinnamon and cardamom notes will bring out the savory side of autumn pumpkins and apples. Around $20

 Nothing says fall like a good white burgundy. Even the “anything-but-chardonnay” types will find Olivier Leflaive Meursault Premier Cru Charmes, 2006 something special. Yes, it’s pricey, but for a special meal, Meursault is a delight. It is a rich, round, elegant and powerful wine, with a ripe nose of white flowers, peach, pear and apricot. There is a hint of brioche that serves as a refined introduction to the clean, crisp and naturally pure sweet flavors that this generous medium-bodied wine offers. The excellent vibrancy and a silky texture displays plenty of citrus-like acidity and finesse. This is a perfect accompaniment to calf’s sweetbread, lobster or cream dishes, and can be served with all kinds of cheeses, fish, poultry and any white meat with cream. This is a charming, enjoyable wine that’s definitely worth the price. Around $65